11 Home Electrical Safety Tips

Listen to your breaker.

A breaker that trips immediately after it's reset is telling you that there's an electrical problem. Sure, sometimes the breaker itself is to blame, and in some cases there may just be too large an electrical load operating on that circuit. But it's more likely that the breaker is tripping because there's a severe electrical problem. Keep pressing that breaker, and you're likely to cause a fire. 

Know when to fight and when to flee.

Firefighters recommend that if you have any doubt about fighting a fire, you're best bet is to get out of the house as quickly as possible. Once you're safely outside, call the fire department. If you decide that there's a reasonable chance that you can fight a fire and win, then stand your ground, but don't let the fire get between you and the exit. If you sense that the fire's going to overtake you and block your exit, get out. 

Never throw water on an electrical fire.

This will be obvious to many PM readers, but in the heat (ahem) of the moment, grabbing a bucket of water can seem tempting, if unreasonable. Water conducts electricity (this is why you don't want to be in a lake during a lightning storm), so throwing water on the fire could cause it to get larger. Instead, use your chemical fire extinguisher. 

Use your fire extinguisher effectively.

Firefighters recommend the time-honored PASS method: 

Pull the fire extinguisher's safety pin.
Aim the extinguisher nozzle at the base of the fire.
Squeeze the extinguisher's handle.
Sweep the extinguisher's nozzle in a side-to-side motion until the flames are out. 

Sure, it sounds easy, but let's hope you never have to use this advice. Start by paying attention to what the circuit breaker is telling you. If it trips immediately, evaluate the situation if you are electrically competent or call an electrician. Don't call Pat, though; he's already got enough to do. 

Aside from blatantly obvious electrical malfunctions that lead to flying sparks or circuit breakers that trip repeatedly, you should always keep a sharp eye cocked for more subtle telltale electrical-danger signs: 

Lights that flicker or that trip the circuit breaker

Cause: Loose wiring splice or a light fixture that's worn out and needs to be replaced.

Solution: Cut power to the fixture and investigate the supply wiring and the fixture itself. Replace wire connectors with new professional-grade types. Replace the fixture if suspect. 

Outlets with a faceplate that's warm to the touch

Cause: An overly large electrical load operating on that outlet, undersized wiring or a loose electrical splice. (Note: it's not unusual for dimmer switches, especially large ones, to be warm. Unless the switch face is actually too hot to touch, a warm dimmer is not a hazard in most cases)

Solution: Cut power and investigate. Look for a loose splice, melted connections, burned insulation. Repair as necessary. Also, evaluate wattage of device; it may be too large relative to supply wiring. Move device to another circuit, preferably one served by a 20-amp circuit breaker and 12-gauge wire. If condition persists, contact an electrician. 

Extension cords wrapped in electrical tape or with loose ends

Cause: Wear and tear has taken its toll on the cord.

Solution: Cut off damaged sections of cords; replace loose or damaged male/female ends. Replace severely damaged cords. 

Wobbly switches or outlet receptacles

Cause: Device is improperly mounted to the electrical box or the box itself has come loose from the stud.

Solution: Cut power. Remove faceplate and tighten mounting screws. Occasionally, overly long screws will not fully seat. Shorten screws with an electrician's multitool (a pair of pliers that strip wire, bend wire and cut screws ). Reinstall device. Otherwise, tighten connection of box to framing. 

Ceiling fans that slowly wobble

Cause: Fan is out of balance or may be installed on a box that's not listed for supporting a fan.

Solution: Balance fan or cut power and reinstall fan, checking for loose, damaged or missing hardware. If necessary, replace box. Use a retrofit/old-work box rated for fan installation (note: These are not to be confused with old-work boxes or other electrical boxes not listed for fan installation. Specialized retrofit boxes rated for fans tend not to be common hardware-store or home-center items. Visit an electrical supply house or use a Web-based supplier. One version is the Steel One Box manufactured by Arlington Products. (www.aifittings.com). 

GFCI outlets that trip repeatedly

Cause: A ground fault or a worn-out GFCI outlet receptacle.

Solution: Move appliance or tool to another GFCI and test. If GFCI trips, appliance or tool is suspect. If GFCI does not trip, electrical problems are likely. Cut power and investigate for damaged wire insulation, a loose splice or a small length of exposed wire making contact with a metal electrical box. If you don't find wiring or splice problems, replace the GFCI. If condition persists, contact an electrician. 

The beer fridge in the garage that occasionally gives you a small shock

Cause: Many an old refrigerator will have a tiny leakage current because of worn-out insulation on its internal wiring, especially if it has a defrost circuit. This phenomenon is well-known and can even be quite dangerous when the refrigerator is placed on an electrically conductive concrete floor, especially a floor that's damp with condensation.

Solution: Replace the refrigerator with a new energy-conserving model.

Read more: 11 Shocking Home Electrical Safety Tips - Popular Mechanics 

10 ways to winterize your home — now

1. Clean those gutters  
Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters -- by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse -- so that winter's rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says. 
As you're hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house's foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.

2. Block those leaks
One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.

First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.

Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show "Today's Homeowner." Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home's outer walls, where cold air often enters.

Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. "Even if it's a small crack, it's worth sealing up," Lipford says. "It also discourages any insects from entering your home."

3. Insulate yourself
"Another thing that does cost a little money -- but boy, you do get the money back quick -- is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic," says Lipford. "Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic."

Don't clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here's Lipford's rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: "If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don't have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches."

A related tip: If you're layering insulation atop other insulation, don't use the kind that has "kraft face" finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.

4. Check the furnace
First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it's even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.

It's a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Costs will often run about $100-$125. An inspector should do the following, among other things: 

Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.

5. Get your ducts in a row 
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That's a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.)

Ducts aren't always easy to see, but you can often find them exposed in the attic, the basement and crawlspaces. Repair places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, and fix gaps with a metal-backed tape (duct tape actually doesn't stand up to the job over time).

Ducts also should be vacuumed once every few years, to clean out the abundant dust, animal hair and other gunk that can gather in them and cause respiratory problems.

6. Face your windows
Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don't have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, "They need to be updated to a more efficient window," says Lipford.

Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that's affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) "It's temporary and it's not pretty, but it's inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it's extremely effective," says Lipford.

7. Don't forget the chimney
Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because "chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed," says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America.

That said, don't put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. "A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year," says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. "I've seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys," he says.

Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. "Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep," he adds.

Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, "anywhere that it's found." Why? "If it's ash, then it's primarily lye -- the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it's very acidic." It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says.

Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. "It's probably the single easiest protection" because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace's walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance.

One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney's damper closed when the fireplace isn't in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn't in use.

8. Reverse that fan
"Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don't often think of," says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here's how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.)

9. Wrap those pipes
A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights aren't commonplace, you can install Styrofoam cups with a screw attachment to help insulate spigots, says Broili. 

Next, go looking for other pipes that aren't insulated, or that pass through unheated spaces -- pipes that run through crawlspaces, basements or garages. Wrap them with pre-molded foam rubber sleeves or fiberglass insulation, available at hardware stores. If you're really worried about a pipe freezing, you can first wrap it with heating tape, which is basically an electrical cord that emits heat.

10. Finally, check those alarms
This is a great time to check the operation -- and change the batteries -- on your home's smoke detectors. Detectors should be replaced every 10 years, fire officials say. Test them -- older ones in particular -- with a small bit of actual smoke, and not just by pressing the "test" button. Check to see that your fire extinguisher is still where it should be, and still works.

Also, invest in a carbon-monoxide detector; every home should have at least one.

Source: http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=13107899

Frequently Asked Questions About Energy Star Boilers

Earning the ENERGY STAR means products meet strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the US Environmental Protection Agency. By choosing ENERGY STAR qualified heating and cooling equipment and taking steps to optimize its performance, you can enhance the comfort of your home while saving energy. Saving energy helps you save money on utility bills and protect the environment by reducing greenhouse gas emissions in the fight against climate change.

ENERGY STAR qualified boilers have annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) ratings of 85% or greater. AFUE is the measure of heating equipment efficiency. They achieve greater efficiency with features, including:

• electronic ignition, which eliminates the need to have the pilot light burning all the time
• new combustion technologies that extract more heat from the same amount of fuel
• sealed combustion that uses outside air to fuel the burner, reducing drafts and improving safety

How efficient are ENERGY STAR qualified boilers?

ENERGY STAR qualified boilers (gas or oil) use about 10% less energy than a standard boiler. They have an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rating of 85% or greater. ENERGY STAR qualified boilers achieve greater efficiency with improved features, including:

• electric ignition, which eliminates the need to have the pilot light burning all the time
• new combustion technologies that extract more heat from the same amount of fuel
• sealed combustion that uses outside air to fuel the burner, reducing draft and improving safety

Is there a tax credit for electric furnaces or boilers?

There was only a tax credit for gas, propane, or oil furnaces and hot water boilers (but it expired Dec 31, 2011).

I have base board water heat (boiler) in my home.  Would it be beneficial to use a programmable thermostat?

Hot-water radiator systems generally do take longer to heat up once they are turned down. However if you are out of the house more than about 6 hours a day, then you will likely benefit from turning down your thermostat when you’re away from the house or asleep. A programmable thermostat would also allow you to turn the temperature back up 1 hour before you get home, so the system is warmed up. Contact your local HVAC contractor to find out whether a programmable thermostat is available for your particular system and what they recommend...

Of course, also consider improving the “envelope” of your home – adequate insulation and proper air sealing in walls, attic, etc., to keep the warm air in longer and save energy.

 

Is there a tax credit for indirect water heaters?

Indirect water heaters were not mentioned in the tax credit law, so they were not eligible for a tax credit. The only water heaters that were eligible for a tax credit are electric heat pump water heaters, gas, propane, or oil water heaters, or solar water heaters.

Indirect water heaters use your furnace or boiler to heat the water in its storage tank.

 

Are there advantages to using a contractor to do ENERGY STAR Home Sealing for me?

Yes. A contractor will have advanced testing tools and products to help them find hidden leaks and seal them up quickly. Even if you are a do-it-yourselfer, in some cases you may need to call in a contractor for certain parts of the job (e.g., if you have old electrical wiring, roof damage, attic ventilation issues, or if you need to address recessed can lights in the attic floor). A professional can also perform a combustion safety test after air sealing to make sure your furnace, boiler, or water heater are venting properly after sealing.

 

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Maintaince Tips for Your Trane

You wouldn’t drive your car 100,000 miles without changing the oil. The same logic holds true for your home comfort system. Regular preventative maintenance is the best way to ensure trouble-free operation and peak performance. Pre-season maintenance is also important. It can help to avoid a system failure in severe hot or cold weather when you need it most, and it can also keep your energy bill from getting out of control.

When Should I Do Maintenance?

The old adage is true: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Below you’ll find our Preventative Maintenance Checklist, which is our proven method to keep your system in the pink and your home in constant comfort.

• For a system that heats and cools: perform maintenance in the spring and fall.
• For cooling only: perform maintenance at least once a year, before the cooling season.
• For heating only: perform maintenance at least once a year, before the heating season.

Preventative Maintenance Checklist

Many dealers provide priority service for their customers who have an annual maintenance or service agreement. Bi-annual preventative maintenance will ensure that your system runs as efficiently as possible. Your local dealer will perform the following tasks, depending on the unit:

Outdoor Units

• Inspect unit for proper refrigerant level and adjust if necessary
• Clean dirt, leaves and debris from inside cabinet
• Inspect base pan for restricted drain openings—remove obstructions as necessary
• Inspect coil and cabinet—clean as needed
• Inspect fan motor and fan blades for wear and damage—on older models lubricate as needed
• Inspect control box, associated controls/accessories, wiring and connections. Controls may include contactors, relays, circuit boards, capacitors, sump heat and other accessories. All control box and electrical parts should be checked for wear or damage.
• Inspect compressor and associated tubing for damage

Indoor Units

• Inspect and clean blower assembly (includes blower housing, blower wheel and motor)
• On older models, lubricate motor and inspect and replace fan belt if needed
• Check combustion blower housing for lint and debris and clean as necessary
• Inspect evaporator coil, drain pan and condensate drain lines. Clean as needed
• Inspect for gas leaks in gas furnaces
• Inspect burner assembly—clean and adjust as needed
• Inspect ignition system and safety controls—clean and adjust as needed
• Inspect heat exchanger or heating elements
• Inspect flue system—check for proper attachment to the furnace, any dislocated sections, and for signs of corrosion. Replace if necessary.
• Inspect control box, associated controls, wiring and connections
• Clean or replace air filters
• Inspect conditioned airflow system (ductwork)—check for leaks

While Your System Is Operating

• Monitor system starting characteristics and capabilities
• Listen for abnormal noise
• Search for source of unusual odors
• Monitor air conditioning and heat pump systems for correct refrigerant charge
• Measure outdoor dry bulb temperature
• Measure indoor dry and wet bulb temperature
• Measure high and low side system pressures
• Monitor gas furnace for correct line and manifold gas pressure—make adjustments as needed
• Measure temperature rise and adjust airflow as needed
• Check vent system for proper operation
• Monitor system for correct line and load volts/amps
• Monitor system operation per manufacturer's specifications
• Provide system operation report and recommend repairs or replacement as necessary

NOTE: Trane recommends all maintenance and service work be performed by a professional air conditioning and heating dealer that holds the appropriate credentials to install and service air conditioning and heating equipment.

How Can I Get the Most Out of My Trane?

Trane systems are designed to provide optimal efficiency and comfort. Now it’s time to do the same to your home. Here are some things you can do around the house to optimize the operation of your system, as well as the comfort inside your home.

Cooling

• Set the thermostat as high as comfort will permit.
• Make sure attics are adequately ventilated to relieve heat buildup. If necessary, improve airflow by adding or enlarging vents.
• When building a new house or renovating an old one, choose light-colored roof shingles to reflect more of the sun's heat.
• During moderate weather, don't use the air conditioner unnecessarily.
• Draw blinds or drapes to block the sunlight during the hottest part of the day.
• Install awnings over windows exposed to direct sunlight.
• In the cooling season, don't run kitchen and bath exhaust fans longer than necessary.
• Don't place lamps, TV sets or other heat-producing devices beneath a wall-mounted thermostat. Rising heat from that equipment may cause the air conditioning system to overcool your house.

Heating

• Locate the thermostat on an inside wall away from windows and doors.
• Set the thermostat as low as comfort permits. Each degree over 68°F can add 3% to the amount of energy needed for heating.
• People generate heat. So lower the thermostat a degree or two when expecting a large group of guests.

Insulation

• Make sure your home is properly insulated. This is the single most important step in conserving energy. Thermal insulation should be specified in terms of thermal resistance (R-values). R-30 (10") is recommended for ceilings, and R-11 (3-1/2”) for exterior walls and floors over unheated areas. In colder climates, consider additional insulation.
• Infiltration of humid outside air is your heating and air conditioning system's worst enemy—it could account for 15% to 30% of air conditioning energy requirements. Find the places where air can sneak into the home and plug them with caulking, weather-stripping or plastic. Also, weather-strip and caulk around all entrance doors and windows.
• Cut heat transfer through your windows by 40% to 50% with double-glazing (two panes of glass separated by a sealed air space) and low-e glass.
• Use wood- or metal-frame storm windows even if single-glazed windows are high quality. The extra layer of glass and the layer of still air will cut heat transfer considerably.
• Install storm doors at all entrances to your house.
• Keep all windows and doors closed.
• Remember that by increasing the glass area, you increase the amount of heat added in summer and lost in winter.
• Make sure fireplaces have tight-fitting dampers, which can be closed when the fireplace is not in use. Invest in a humidifier to conserve energy in winter. The air in your home won't be as dry, so you stay comfortable at a lower temperature setting.

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Ten Things You Should Know About Mold and Indoor Air Quality

1. Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints.
   
2. There is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment; the way to control indoor mold growth is to control moisture.
   
3. If mold is a problem in your home or school, you must clean up the mold and eliminate sources of moisture.
   
4. Fix the source of the water problem or leak to prevent mold growth.
   
5. Reduce indoor humidity (to 30-60%) to decrease mold growth by: venting bathrooms, dryers, and other moisture-generating sources to the outside; using air conditioners and de-humidifiers; increasing ventilation; and using exhaust fans whenever cooking, dishwashing, and cleaning.
   
6. Clean and dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.
   
7. Clean mold off hard surfaces with water and detergent, and dry completely. Absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles, that are moldy, may need to be replaced.
   
8. Prevent condensation: Reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (i.e., windows, piping, exterior walls, roof, or floors) by adding insulation.
   
9. In areas where there is a perpetual moisture problem, do not install carpeting (i.e., by drinking fountains, by classroom sinks, or on concrete floors with leaks or frequent condensation).
   
10. Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any substance, providing moisture is present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, and foods.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Ground Source Heat Pumps (Geothermal Heat Pumps)

How efficient is a GSHP?

The GSHP is one of the most efficient residential heating and cooling systems available today, with heating efficiencies 50 to 70% higher than other heating systems and cooling efficiencies 20 to 40% higher than available air conditioners. That directly translates into savings for you on your utility bills.
     
Can one system provide both space heating and cooling for my home? And what about heating hot water?
Yes. A GSHP can be a combination heating/cooling and hot water heating system. You can change from one mode to another with a simple flick on your indoor thermostat. Using a desuperheater, some GSHPs can save you up to 50% on your water-heating bill by preheating tank water.

How long will my GSHP system last?
GSHPs are durable and highly reliable. The GSHP contains fewer mechanical components, and all components are either buried in the ground or located inside the home, which protects them from outside conditions. The underground pipe carries up to a 50-year warranty.

How noisy is the GSHP unit?
GSHPs are very quiet, providing a pleasant environment inside & outside of the home. GSHPs have no noisy fan units to disturb outdoor activities, on or near the patio.

How safe are GSHPs?
GSHP systems are safe and protected. With no exposed equipment outdoors, children or pets cannot injure themselves or damage exterior units. GSHPs have no open flame, flammable fuel or potentially dangerous fuel storage tanks.

How will I save money with a GSHP? GSHPs save money, both in operating costs and maintenance costs. Investments can be recouped in as little as three years. There is a positive cash flow, since the energy savings usually exceeds payment on the system.

Will my existing ductwork function with this system?
Yes, in most cases. Your dealer or installer will be able to determine ductwork requirements and if any minor modifications are needed.

Will an underground loop affect my lawn or landscape?
No. Research has shown that loops have no adverse effects on grass, trees, or shrubs. Most horizontal installations require trenches about six inches wide. Temporary bare areas can be restored with grass seed or sod. Vertical loops require little space and do not damage lawns significantly.

My yard contains many shade trees. Will this affect ground temperature and my ability to use it as an energy source?
Not at all. The system is installed deep enough that it utilizes constant ground temperature.

Do soil freezing conditions create any problems? Not if a system is properly designed and installed. The three to four foot depths allow the sun to melt the frozen soil during the summer. Adequate length per ton capacity prevents objectionable soil movement.



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Importance of Air Conditioning Maintenance

Air conditioning has become an integral part of most people’s lives, these days. This is a perfect way to enjoy comfort and ideal temperature indoors irrespective of the conditions outdoors. However, most people do not know much about the importance of Air Conditioning Maintenance. If you want your home, office, factory, school or building to remain cool & effective, air conditioning maintenance must be carried out on a regular basis.

Here is what you need to know about air conditioning maintenance:

• Per-fixed air conditioning maintenance must be carried out regularly. This will ensure that the unit is functioning at its best. This will also make the system compatible with current legislation and ideal for your specific cooling & heating requirements.



• Understanding the importance of air conditioning maintenance will keep the system in its optimum working condition. Taking care of the system properly and maintaining it well will let you save a lot on energy bills in the long run. You will realize that it will last longer.



• You may require emergency air conditioning maintenance in case of a system failure. This will repair any damage in the system or replace aging parts to let it function property.



• Maintenance contract is very useful. It helps in any kind of minor repair or modifications required for the system instantly & efficiently. And for some systems maintenance is essential to comply with F Gas legislation.



• The frequency of pre-fixed air conditioning maintenance will depend on the type of unit installed & how much it is used. A unit that is used everyday will require more attention than one that is used just a few days in a week.



• Choosing a reputed air conditioning maintenance & installation firm is crucial. This will let you stay rest assured of the fact that removal of refrigerant gas or other repairs are taken care of easily & efficiently and safely.

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Keywords: Air Conditioning; HVAC; Air Conditioning Maintenance