Tuesday, January 29, 2013

Keep the Winter from Drying out Your Home: Get a Humidifier

When winter hits it can cause you and your home to feel the wrath of dry air. This causes minor problems such as dry skin, chapped lips, and unexpected shocks when you touch doorknobs (or people). Dry air is also the cause of much more serious conditions such as sinus infections that leave you congested or dry nasal passages that can lead to nosebleeds. The frigid dry air can also increase allergy and asthma symptoms.

So, is there any cure to these dreaded annoyances and ailments. Of course there is, and you already know the answer if you read the title. A humidifier is the best appliance you can own during the winter if your suffering from dry air. They not only give your home that needed 30 to 50 percent air moisture, but they let your sinus cavities relax and quit attacking you.

Another great thing about owning a humidifier is about the warmth they add to your home. Dry air can make your home feel much colder – sometimes even colder than outside in some areas. When a humidifier gives you back that long missed moisture, it also heats up your home in the process.

To see if your home is in need of a humidifier, it is a good idea to purchase a humidity sensor. This is important because if your home has more than 50 percent humidity, it could actually cause your home to go in the opposite direction and cause mold, condensation, and bacteria. Sometimes your whole house might need a humidifier and sometimes just one room or floor will need one.

Types of Humidifiers

  • Central Humidifiers - humidify whole house
  • Console Humidifiers – built into cabinets
  • Portable Humidifiers – can be moved from room to room
  • Sub Categories
    • Steam Vaporizer Humidifiers – boils water and releases steam or moisture into the air
    • Evaporative Humidifiers – most common
    • Impellar Humidifiers – flings water at a diffuser, which releases droplets of water into air
    • Ultrasonic Humidifiers - ultrasonic frequency creates water droplets that silently exit the humidifier in the form of a cool fog

 
Gehringer Mechanical has been a premiere service and construction company for 25 years. They provide electrical and plumbing services in the Burks, Bucks, Chester, Lehigh, and Montgomery Counties in Pennsylvania. The provide 24 emergency service for all of their specialties including humidification and ventilation.

Friday, January 25, 2013

Tips to Being Energy Efficient in the Winter

When winter time sets in, most areas have one thing in common, and that is how to keep their utility bill down while remaining warm inside their home. To get this outcome, it requires you to follow specific regimens when it comes to your thermostat and furnace as well as checking up on various parts of your house.

Heating the Home


It should be your first goal to have a programmable thermostat added to your home when worrying about energy efficiency. It should be placed in an area that will house the average temperature on the inside of your house. After it is installed, you will need to schedule the thermostat to set the temperature 10 degrees lower than normal at night and when no one is home. This will help to reduce your utility bill by up to 20 percent.

To compensate for some of the heat at night, try wearing sweaters and warm socks. This will help to keep your body heat in. Every time the thermostat is lowered by just one degree Fahrenheit, it will save you 3 percent.

If you have a forced air furnace, your filters should have been inspected at the beginning of the season. Upkeep will require you to check them every month afterward, and if they are dusty, they should be replaced or cleaned at the least.

Humidifiers are also a good way to stay warm. By adding moisture back into the air, they can actually make you feel warmer despite the lower thermostat setting.

Air Leaks

Most commonly air leaks are found around doors and windows, but there are other areas such as electrical outlets and washer and dryer hoses where cold air can get in also.

Keep all windows and doors leading to the outside closed as much as possible. When possible close off unused rooms (unless the thermostat is located in the room) and shut any air vents in the rooms to keep warm air more localized to the rest of the house.

Plastic film that can be found at local hardware stores are great for placing around windows. You might also have to seal and caulk and areas where leaks are noticeable. Doors with leaks (check with a flashlight or piece of paper) should be sealed with weatherstripping. Electrical outlets should have foam insulation gaskets placed behind them, and it is a good idea to switch the plate cover if the original has been damaged or is old.

Hot Water

Start with your water heater when worrying about hot water increasing your utility bill. Set the temperature to normal (120° F) unless you have a device that requires it to be hire such as a dishwasher. This should save you 7 to 10 percent on your hot water heating. You should also pick up pipe insulation from your local hardware store. Insulate the first five feet or until the pipe goes into the wall if it is shorter than five feet. It is also a good idea to wrap your actual water heater in insulation if it is older than five years old.

Next, when actually using hot water be sensible. When you take a hot shower, set the temperature to what you can absolutely tolerate as far as cold is concerned. Also, try not to just hang out in the shower but do what you have to do and get out. If you own a dishwasher only run full loads, and when washing dishes normally, try to only do it at most once a day and rinse as many dishes as possible at once to keep from having water running needlessly.

Unnecessary Energy Loss

To keep from having the thermostat set on high during the day, open your curtains to let the sun come in and warm your home. Close them when it starts to get dark.

Place your furniture in areas where it will not be drafty. This means placing pieces on inside walls as those facing the outside and where windows sit will typically be drafty. This could keep you warmer and help you fight the urge to turn the thermostat up.

If you have a traditional fireplace in your home, make sure the damper is closed when it is not in use. It is also a good idea to close the doors, if there are any, to protect against any leaking air. It is also not a good idea to use this type of fireplace very often, if at all, as they typically let out more warm air than provide warmth.

Hire a Professional

If you are unsure what needs to be sealed or how to do it, or if you find no change in your utility bill, it is often a good idea to hire a professional. There are companies that will make sure your furnace is working properly, your home is completely insulated and weatherized, and they can check up on a variety of other issues that may be keeping your home from being energy efficient. A few places where a professional may be needed are:

  • Attic Insulation
  • Broken Windows
  • Large Holes in Attic, Crawlspace, or Basement
  • Seal Exposed Ductwork
  • Replace Older or Loose Fireplace Dampers

Gehringer Mechanical offers plumbing, heating, air conditioning, and electrical work to customers in Berks, Bucks, Chester, Lehigh, and Montgomery Counties.

Monday, December 24, 2012

When to Hire a Professional Plumber

Many plumbing projects are ideal for the do-it-yourselfer, especially with all of the tutorials and guides online. There are times, however, when calling a professional plumber is the best option. Even some seemingly easy projects are best handled by a pro. Save yourself some time and trouble by calling a professional for the following types of plumbing projects.
Permits Are Required: Generally things like bathroom remodels, moving existing plumbing, or adding new a new gas line for your BBQ will require a permit. A professional will know when a permit is required and the process and building codes to make sure the inspections go through.

Main Line Stoppage: Anytime the toilets are backing up into the tubs and showers the problem is most likely the main line. This usually requires special equipment that most homeowners don't typically have. While renting the equipment is possible, it is not advisable unless you have experience using it. A professional will have experience using the equipment and clearing out the main line.

Shower Valve Replacement: This can be complex and time consuming for the inexperienced do-it-yourselfer. An expert can help you pick out the right valve for your shower. The options are many and it can get confusing very quickly. There is also the possibility of damaging the shower walls in the process. A professional will know how to change the valve with the least amount of damage (if any) to your walls.

Water Heaters: Depending on this situation it is not recommended to work on your own water heater without experience or proper guidance. There are a lot of things that can go wrong during a water heater repair. An apparently simple adjustment may end up making a leak worse or causing more damage.

Tub Replacement: This type of project is a big job, even for the professional plumber. It may sound straight forward, but it is quite involved and is not recommended for even the handiest homeowner.

Source

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

HVAC Retrofits: 8 Factors to Consider

No matter how well an HVAC system is maintained, it will eventually need to be replaced. That isn’t a task to be entered into lightly. HVAC system replacement is a costly and messy process that can disrupt building operations over an extended period of time. It’s crucial to ensure that the retrofit produces the maximum benefit. Not only will this enhance the operation of the facility, it will also help to ensure that the retrofit process will not have to be repeated in the near future.

Facility executives embarking on an HVAC retrofit should keep eight factors in mind.

1. In-kind Replacement

The easiest and quickest way to replace an older HVAC system is to put in a new system that matches the old one. While that approach is simple and quick, it is often not the best choice. Most HVAC systems and their components have normal service lives of 15 to 25 years if properly maintained. When a system is originally installed, it is sized and designed to meet the needs of the building at that time. But buildings change, and so do the operations that take place within the buildings. There might be more people in the building and more electronic equipment -- computers, printers, copiers and the like. Simply replacing in kind does not take these changes into consideration. To get the most out of HVAC system retrofits, the new system with new options must be designed to match the current needs of the facility.

2. New Technologies

HVAC technology has achieved tremendous progress in the past 15 years. New DDC control systems provide a better climate while reducing energy costs. High-efficiency or alternative-fuel chillers can reduce the cost of air conditioning. Variable frequency drives can improve the operating efficiency of both chillers and fan systems. Interoperable building automation systems give facility executives the tools they need to better manage operations. An HVAC retrofit is often a good time to take advantage of these newer HVAC technologies.

3. Flexibility

Buildings today are in a constant state of churn. Interiors are rearranged. Old tenants move out and new ones move in. Infrastructure requirements increase. The result is that facility executives are constantly changing facilities to meet the needs of occupants. But one thing that doesn’t change easily in many existing buildings is the HVAC system.  That’s why flexibility should be a key goal of HVAC system retrofits. HVAC systems should be able to adapt to those changes without requiring costly alterations. Otherwise, facility executives face a no-win situation: covering the cost of expensive changes to the HVAC system or living with an HVAC system that can’t keep up with changes in the building.

4. Part-load Performance

Chillers are the single largest users of electricity in practically all buildings. When selecting replacement chillers, much emphasis is paid to this full-load efficiency rating. But that’s only part of the picture.  Most chillers operate at full load for less than 5 percent of their total run time. The other 95 percent of the time chillers are operating below full-load capabilities. As the load on chillers decreases, so does the efficiency of the units.  Because chillers operate under part-load conditions for such a high percentage of their run times, the annual energy cost of the chiller will be determined primarily by its part-load efficiency. Although it might cost more to purchase a unit with better part-load efficiency, this premium will be recovered many times over through energy savings during the life of the chiller.

5. Maintenance

As HVAC systems age, maintenance requirements increase. But as long as a system doesn’t stop working, it might not even be considered as a retrofit candidate. But just because a system is able to limp along doesn’t mean it’s operating efficiently or meeting the requirements of the application.  Look through maintenance records for the building. High maintenance costs and increasing maintenance requirements are an indication that those systems or components might be approaching the end of their service lives. Facility executives should set priorities for HVAC retrofits based in part on maintenance requirements.

6. The Big Picture

There is a tendency when planning for HVAC retrofits to develop tunnel vision and focus on only a specific component or portion of the HVAC system. The chiller that is becoming unreliable or the air handler that no longer meets the needs of the conditioned space might be serious problems that demand to be addressed. But before making retrofit decisions, facility executives should step back and determine if other projects planned for the building will affect HVAC system operation.  For example, upgrading the lighting system or installing more energy-efficient windows will reduce cooling loads. If those projects are planned in the near future, then a planned retrofit program for the building’s chiller should be scheduled after they have been completed. Reduced cooling loads will allow a smaller chiller, reducing both first and operating costs.

7. Building Occupants

One of the goals of any HVAC retrofit program is to improve the level of service. While facility executives might understand the technical problems with the existing HVAC systems, they will not fully comprehend the needs of building occupants unless they get them involved in the retrofit process. After all, occupants are the ones that understand their operations the best. Facility executives will not know what system will best meet occupant needs -- indeed, they might not even have a good understanding of what their HVAC needs are -- but occupant input will give the facility executive a clearer understanding of what the HVAC system will be expected to do.  Building occupants are also good sources of information on the performance of existing systems. Frequently, they are aware of problems that go unreported to building staff. That information is often crucial in setting priorities for HVAC system retrofits.

8. Program Approval

HVAC retrofits must compete with other programs for funding. Too often, though, facility executives simply submit funding requests with little or no supporting information. As a result, projects fail to win the funding needed to perform a complete retrofit. Instead, components are patched together just to keep the system running.  To increase the chances of receiving funding, facility executives must submit their budget requests in a format familiar to financial managers. Energy savings, maintenance savings, return on investment: These are among the terms that will help convince financial managers of the value of the project.  It’s also important to provide the right level of detail. For example, if reliability is an issue, it isn’t enough simply to report that fact; instead, the facility executive must show that it is a problem with key supporting information. How many times has service been interrupted? What was the cost of those interruptions to the maintenance department? What was the cost to building occupants? What level of performance can be expected from the retrofit system?

An HVAC retrofit is a major undertaking for the facility department, the occupants and the organization’s management. It is also an opportunity -- an opportunity that, because of the cost and disruption involved, might not come along again for decades. What’s more, the success of the project will shape the way that occupants and top management perceive the facility department -- a perception that will influence the success of future facility initiatives. Taking the time to get the retrofit right is worth the effort.


Gehringer Mechanical offers plumbing, heating, air conditioning, and electrical work to customers in Berks, Bucks, Chester, Lehigh, and Montgomery Counties.

Friday, November 30, 2012

Having Dishwasher problems? Hire a plumber.

Plumbing problems on the dishwasher normally occur with little warning and at the most inconvenient times. The most common problems associated with dishwasher plumbing involve clogged or broken pipes and leaky fixtures. Trying to fix these issues yourself might complicate the problem instead of fixing it. To get your water flowing and draining again usually require the service of an expert plumber.

Common problems you may experience with a dishwasher include leaks, clogs, and foul smells.

A water leak that is left unfixed can waste several gallons of water every day. Even loosing 40 drops of water per minute can add up to more than 90 gallons of water every month. A minute drip which is not addressed can grow in size, cause bigger problems creating secondary issues. The obvious problem is raising the utility bill. Depending on the place of the leak and where the water is dripping, it can lead to a damp environment growing moulds, attracting bugs and rotting wood. It is not enough to tighten the faucet spigot or pipe fittings. The whole process requires special tools and skills of an experienced plumber.

A dishwasher that drains slowly is a sign of minor clog. When this is not fixed properly, it can grow into a major clog which can lead to flooding in the kitchen. The debris which blocks the pipes should be broken up and removed instead of pushing them further down the water line. With the service of a professional plumber, the plumbing work will be done quickly and effectively.

A bad smell coming from your dishwasher is normally as a result of drain failure. Stagnant water causes smell, this can later on turn to an awful smell which is accompanied by black water and bacteria, leading to a lot of pipe work and repairs. Freeing up your dishwasher drainage block is only the first step. Replacing or repairing your unit and using an antibacterial substance are also important in order to prevent likely illness which might results from using the defective appliances.


Gehringer Mechanical offers HVAC, electrical, air quality, plumbing, maintenance, and construction services to parts of Berks, Bucks, Chester, Lehigh, and Montgomery Counties.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Low-flow Showerheads & Thermal Shock

How to reduce water and save yourself from unintended injury

“Going Green” isn’t just a trend—it’s a global wide phenomenon, appealing to many different types of people for many different reasons. It’s good for the health of the environment, it can save money and resources, it promotes efficiency and reduces waste, and it makes us feel good knowing we are doing our part to save the earth for future generations. It is a philosophy, a way of life and in some cases a necessity. Water is one of those necessities.

Because water is so vital to how we live our lives, there is a deep concern about how to preserve and protect the water we use every day for food, bathing, electricity and more. On average the USA uses 408 billion gallons of water per day (National Atlas, USA, 2011). It’s a number that rose steadily until recent years when conservation efforts proved successful in keeping that number level, despite a growing population and an increase in demand, by making the ways we use water more efficient.

Homeowners have been doing their part by turning to more efficient fixtures for their homes and limiting wasteful use. Manufacturers have been doing their part as well offering all sorts of products that use less water, and that do it so well you don’t miss it. Today’s low flow products aren’t just made to use less water; they are designed to function better without it. Consumers don’t have to choose between products that work or products that are eco-friendly—they can have both.

For example, new technologies in how a showerhead creates a stream of water can allow a bather to experience the same intensity of water flow even though there is less actual water in the stream. This is a great thing, but it important to remember that the showerhead is just one part of a larger whole. It is literally an end-cap to a massive system designed to carrier and distribute water. Unintended changes to this system can affect its ability to function correctly and cause unintended failures that can result in serious injury due to what is known as thermal shock.

Thermal shock is when there is a rapid change in water temperature (either hot or cold) that can trigger an automatic response in a bather to escape from the source. This sort of extreme change in temperature is known to make people jump or react in such a way that it creates a high risk of injury from falls or slips, and in the case of hot temperatures it also carries a serious risk of burns. Thermal Shock has been known to cause not only first degree burns in bathers, but second and even third degree burns as well. It is something that occurs when there is an improper balance in pressure inside a water system that cannot properly compensate for the demands of multiple fixtures in the home. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)

Installing a low-flow showerhead into a building that was designed to work with a product that uses a larger flow of water can create this risk if it is not properly done. This does not mean that that newer more water efficient showerheads shouldn’t be installed in older homes, but it does mean that it is absolutely imperative that the installation is done properly with all the necessary precautions. Low-flow showerheads should never be used with a non-automatic compensating type tub/shower valve. This means making sure that the home uses an automatic compensating valve; one that will not be subject to extreme changes in temperature in the water coming from the showerhead when another fixture in the building, such as a toilet or a dishwasher, is turned on. In addition to making sure it is an automatic compensating valve, it is important to make sure that the maximum flow rate of the showerhead matches or exceeds the minimum flow rate of the shower valve and that both be quoted at the same psi. This way you can be sure that the range of water flow for both the showerhead and the valve are within the same range and will work together properly without the risk of injury. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)

The balance between the flow rate of the showerhead and the valve it is connected to is the only way to properly ensure the safety of the bather. Attempts to circumvent this by adjusting the thermostat of a water heater carries a high risk and is considered extremely dangerous. Thermostats in water heaters are designed to control the temperature of water coming into the unit and heat it up to the desired setting, but in doing so it can easily reheat the water already inside. It is not uncommon for water coming out of a heater to fluctuate from the set temperature up to 35 degrees warmer putting it into the temperature range capable of producing serious burns within seconds. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)

Homeowners and the many well-intentioned groups and agencies that are promoting the use of more water-efficient products should make sure they take into account the whole of the plumbing system and how it works together, and beware of focusing on only one part which can lead to unintended consequences and injuries. Going green and conserving water is something that we can all do but we need to make sure that we do it safely so that we protect the current generation as well as the future ones.

Sources:
American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group. (2012, March). Scald Hazards Associated with Low-Flow Showerheads. Retrieved August 2012, from http://www.asse-plumbing.org: http://www.asse-plumbing.org/ScaldHazards.pdf
National Atlas, USA. (2011, January 26). National Atlas of the United States of America. Retrieved August 30, 2012, from http://www.nationalatlas.gov/articles/water/a_wateruse.html: http://www.nationalatlas.gov/articles/water/a_wateruse.html#top

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Winter Energy Saving tips

The golden rule, If you are using your heater during chilly nights, abide by the golden rule: keep it a few degrees cooler than you're comfortable with, applies for the Northeastern region. When the weather dips below freezing and you have no choice but to crank up the furnace, the best way to make sure you're saving money is by investing time in a complete tune-up of your heating system. A proper cleaning and inspection of all your HVAC equipment will ensure your unit is running most efficiently — and can also spot a potential problem before it becomes a major repair. Other heating tips for those in this region include always closing the fireplace damper to avoid losing heat as well as making sure all your windows and doors are secured with weather stripping and caulking.

Source: http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/976049/winter-energy-saving-tips-by-region