Many plumbing projects are ideal for the do-it-yourselfer, especially
with all of the tutorials and guides online. There are times, however,
when calling a professional plumber is the best option. Even some
seemingly easy projects are best handled by a pro. Save yourself some
time and trouble by calling a professional for the following types of
plumbing projects.
Permits Are Required: Generally things like bathroom remodels,
moving existing plumbing, or adding new a new gas line for your BBQ
will require a permit. A professional will know when a permit is required and the process and building codes to make sure the inspections go through.
Main Line Stoppage: Anytime the toilets are backing up into
the tubs and showers the problem is most likely the main line. This
usually requires special equipment that most homeowners don't typically
have. While renting the equipment is possible, it is not advisable
unless you have experience using it. A professional will have experience
using the equipment and clearing out the main line.
Shower Valve Replacement: This can be complex and time
consuming for the inexperienced do-it-yourselfer. An expert can help you
pick out the right valve for your shower. The options are many and it
can get confusing very quickly. There is also the possibility of
damaging the shower walls in the process. A professional will know how
to change the valve with the least amount of damage (if any) to your
walls.
Water Heaters: Depending on this situation it is not
recommended to work on your own water heater without experience or
proper guidance. There are a lot of things that can go wrong during a
water heater repair. An apparently simple adjustment may end up making a
leak worse or causing more damage.
Tub Replacement: This type of project is a big job, even for
the professional plumber. It may sound straight forward, but it is quite
involved and is not recommended for even the handiest homeowner.
Source
Monday, December 24, 2012
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
HVAC Retrofits: 8 Factors to Consider
No matter how well an HVAC system is maintained, it will
eventually need to be replaced. That isn’t a task to be entered into lightly.
HVAC system replacement is a costly and messy process that can disrupt building
operations over an extended period of time. It’s crucial to ensure that the
retrofit produces the maximum benefit. Not only will this enhance the operation
of the facility, it will also help to ensure that the retrofit process will not
have to be repeated in the near future.
Gehringer Mechanical
offers plumbing, heating, air conditioning, and electrical work to customers in
Berks, Bucks, Chester, Lehigh, and Montgomery Counties.
Facility executives embarking on an HVAC retrofit should
keep eight factors in mind.
1. In-kind
Replacement
The easiest and quickest way to replace an older HVAC system
is to put in a new system that matches the old one. While that approach is
simple and quick, it is often not the best choice. Most HVAC systems and their
components have normal service lives of 15 to 25 years if properly maintained.
When a system is originally installed, it is sized and designed to meet the
needs of the building at that time. But buildings change, and so do the
operations that take place within the buildings. There might be more people in
the building and more electronic equipment -- computers, printers, copiers and
the like. Simply replacing in kind does not take these changes into
consideration. To get the most out of HVAC system retrofits, the new system
with new options must be designed to match the current needs of the facility.
2. New Technologies
HVAC technology has achieved tremendous progress in the past
15 years. New DDC control systems provide a better climate while reducing
energy costs. High-efficiency or alternative-fuel chillers can reduce the cost
of air conditioning. Variable frequency drives can improve the operating efficiency
of both chillers and fan systems. Interoperable building automation systems
give facility executives the tools they need to better manage operations. An
HVAC retrofit is often a good time to take advantage of these newer HVAC
technologies.
3. Flexibility
Buildings today are in a constant state of churn. Interiors
are rearranged. Old tenants move out and new ones move in. Infrastructure
requirements increase. The result is that facility executives are constantly
changing facilities to meet the needs of occupants. But one thing that doesn’t
change easily in many existing buildings is the HVAC system. That’s why flexibility should be a key goal
of HVAC system retrofits. HVAC systems should be able to adapt to those changes
without requiring costly alterations. Otherwise, facility executives face a
no-win situation: covering the cost of expensive changes to the HVAC system or
living with an HVAC system that can’t keep up with changes in the building.
4. Part-load
Performance
Chillers are the single largest users of electricity in
practically all buildings. When selecting replacement chillers, much emphasis
is paid to this full-load efficiency rating. But that’s only part of the
picture. Most chillers operate at full
load for less than 5 percent of their total run time. The other 95 percent of
the time chillers are operating below full-load capabilities. As the load on
chillers decreases, so does the efficiency of the units. Because chillers operate under part-load
conditions for such a high percentage of their run times, the annual energy
cost of the chiller will be determined primarily by its part-load efficiency.
Although it might cost more to purchase a unit with better part-load
efficiency, this premium will be recovered many times over through energy
savings during the life of the chiller.
5. Maintenance
As HVAC systems age, maintenance requirements increase. But
as long as a system doesn’t stop working, it might not even be considered as a
retrofit candidate. But just because a system is able to limp along doesn’t
mean it’s operating efficiently or meeting the requirements of the application. Look through maintenance records for the
building. High maintenance costs and increasing maintenance requirements are an
indication that those systems or components might be approaching the end of
their service lives. Facility executives should set priorities for HVAC
retrofits based in part on maintenance requirements.
6. The Big Picture
There is a tendency when planning for HVAC retrofits to
develop tunnel vision and focus on only a specific component or portion of the
HVAC system. The chiller that is becoming unreliable or the air handler that no
longer meets the needs of the conditioned space might be serious problems that
demand to be addressed. But before making retrofit decisions, facility
executives should step back and determine if other projects planned for the
building will affect HVAC system operation.
For example, upgrading the lighting system or installing more
energy-efficient windows will reduce cooling loads. If those projects are
planned in the near future, then a planned retrofit program for the building’s
chiller should be scheduled after they have been completed. Reduced cooling
loads will allow a smaller chiller, reducing both first and operating costs.
7. Building Occupants
One of the goals of any HVAC retrofit program is to improve
the level of service. While facility executives might understand the technical
problems with the existing HVAC systems, they will not fully comprehend the
needs of building occupants unless they get them involved in the retrofit
process. After all, occupants are the ones that understand their operations the
best. Facility executives will not know what system will best meet occupant
needs -- indeed, they might not even have a good understanding of what their
HVAC needs are -- but occupant input will give the facility executive a clearer
understanding of what the HVAC system will be expected to do. Building occupants are also good sources of
information on the performance of existing systems. Frequently, they are aware
of problems that go unreported to building staff. That information is often
crucial in setting priorities for HVAC system retrofits.
8. Program Approval
HVAC retrofits must compete with other programs for funding.
Too often, though, facility executives simply submit funding requests with
little or no supporting information. As a result, projects fail to win the
funding needed to perform a complete retrofit. Instead, components are patched
together just to keep the system running.
To increase the chances of receiving funding, facility executives must
submit their budget requests in a format familiar to financial managers. Energy
savings, maintenance savings, return on investment: These are among the terms
that will help convince financial managers of the value of the project. It’s also important to provide the right
level of detail. For example, if reliability is an issue, it isn’t enough
simply to report that fact; instead, the facility executive must show that it
is a problem with key supporting information. How many times has service been
interrupted? What was the cost of those interruptions to the maintenance
department? What was the cost to building occupants? What level of performance
can be expected from the retrofit system?
An HVAC retrofit is a major undertaking for the facility
department, the occupants and the organization’s management. It is also an
opportunity -- an opportunity that, because of the cost and disruption
involved, might not come along again for decades. What’s more, the success of
the project will shape the way that occupants and top management perceive the
facility department -- a perception that will influence the success of future
facility initiatives. Taking the time to get the retrofit right is worth the
effort.
Friday, November 30, 2012
Having Dishwasher problems? Hire a plumber.
Plumbing problems on the dishwasher normally occur with
little warning and at the most inconvenient times. The most common problems
associated with dishwasher plumbing involve clogged or broken pipes and leaky
fixtures. Trying to fix these issues yourself might complicate the problem
instead of fixing it. To get your water flowing and draining again usually
require the service of an expert plumber.
Common problems you may experience with a dishwasher include
leaks, clogs, and foul smells.
A water leak that is left unfixed can waste several gallons
of water every day. Even loosing 40 drops of water per minute can add up to
more than 90 gallons of water every month. A minute drip which is not addressed
can grow in size, cause bigger problems creating secondary issues. The obvious
problem is raising the utility bill. Depending on the place of the leak and
where the water is dripping, it can lead to a damp environment growing moulds,
attracting bugs and rotting wood. It is not enough to tighten the faucet spigot
or pipe fittings. The whole process requires special tools and skills of an
experienced plumber.
A dishwasher that drains slowly is a sign of minor clog.
When this is not fixed properly, it can grow into a major clog which can lead
to flooding in the kitchen. The debris which blocks the pipes should be broken
up and removed instead of pushing them further down the water line. With the
service of a professional plumber, the plumbing work will be done
quickly and effectively.
A bad smell coming from your dishwasher is normally as a
result of drain failure. Stagnant water causes smell, this can later on turn to
an awful smell which is accompanied by black water and bacteria, leading to a
lot of pipe work and repairs. Freeing up your dishwasher drainage block is only
the first step. Replacing or repairing your unit and using an antibacterial
substance are also important in order to prevent likely illness which might
results from using the defective appliances.
Gehringer Mechanical
offers HVAC, electrical, air quality, plumbing, maintenance, and construction
services to parts of Berks, Bucks, Chester, Lehigh, and Montgomery Counties.
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
Low-flow Showerheads & Thermal Shock
How to reduce water and save yourself from unintended injury
“Going Green” isn’t just a trend—it’s a global wide phenomenon, appealing to many different types of people for many different reasons. It’s good for the health of the environment, it can save money and resources, it promotes efficiency and reduces waste, and it makes us feel good knowing we are doing our part to save the earth for future generations. It is a philosophy, a way of life and in some cases a necessity. Water is one of those necessities.
Because water is so vital to how we live our lives, there is a deep concern about how to preserve and protect the water we use every day for food, bathing, electricity and more. On average the USA uses 408 billion gallons of water per day (National Atlas, USA, 2011). It’s a number that rose steadily until recent years when conservation efforts proved successful in keeping that number level, despite a growing population and an increase in demand, by making the ways we use water more efficient.
Homeowners have been doing their part by turning to more efficient fixtures for their homes and limiting wasteful use. Manufacturers have been doing their part as well offering all sorts of products that use less water, and that do it so well you don’t miss it. Today’s low flow products aren’t just made to use less water; they are designed to function better without it. Consumers don’t have to choose between products that work or products that are eco-friendly—they can have both.
For example, new technologies in how a showerhead creates a stream of water can allow a bather to experience the same intensity of water flow even though there is less actual water in the stream. This is a great thing, but it important to remember that the showerhead is just one part of a larger whole. It is literally an end-cap to a massive system designed to carrier and distribute water. Unintended changes to this system can affect its ability to function correctly and cause unintended failures that can result in serious injury due to what is known as thermal shock.
Thermal shock is when there is a rapid change in water temperature (either hot or cold) that can trigger an automatic response in a bather to escape from the source. This sort of extreme change in temperature is known to make people jump or react in such a way that it creates a high risk of injury from falls or slips, and in the case of hot temperatures it also carries a serious risk of burns. Thermal Shock has been known to cause not only first degree burns in bathers, but second and even third degree burns as well. It is something that occurs when there is an improper balance in pressure inside a water system that cannot properly compensate for the demands of multiple fixtures in the home. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)
Installing a low-flow showerhead into a building that was designed to work with a product that uses a larger flow of water can create this risk if it is not properly done. This does not mean that that newer more water efficient showerheads shouldn’t be installed in older homes, but it does mean that it is absolutely imperative that the installation is done properly with all the necessary precautions. Low-flow showerheads should never be used with a non-automatic compensating type tub/shower valve. This means making sure that the home uses an automatic compensating valve; one that will not be subject to extreme changes in temperature in the water coming from the showerhead when another fixture in the building, such as a toilet or a dishwasher, is turned on. In addition to making sure it is an automatic compensating valve, it is important to make sure that the maximum flow rate of the showerhead matches or exceeds the minimum flow rate of the shower valve and that both be quoted at the same psi. This way you can be sure that the range of water flow for both the showerhead and the valve are within the same range and will work together properly without the risk of injury. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)
The balance between the flow rate of the showerhead and the valve it is connected to is the only way to properly ensure the safety of the bather. Attempts to circumvent this by adjusting the thermostat of a water heater carries a high risk and is considered extremely dangerous. Thermostats in water heaters are designed to control the temperature of water coming into the unit and heat it up to the desired setting, but in doing so it can easily reheat the water already inside. It is not uncommon for water coming out of a heater to fluctuate from the set temperature up to 35 degrees warmer putting it into the temperature range capable of producing serious burns within seconds. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)
Homeowners and the many well-intentioned groups and agencies that are promoting the use of more water-efficient products should make sure they take into account the whole of the plumbing system and how it works together, and beware of focusing on only one part which can lead to unintended consequences and injuries. Going green and conserving water is something that we can all do but we need to make sure that we do it safely so that we protect the current generation as well as the future ones.
Sources:
American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group. (2012, March). Scald Hazards Associated with Low-Flow Showerheads. Retrieved August 2012, from http://www.asse-plumbing.org: http://www.asse-plumbing.org/ScaldHazards.pdf
National Atlas, USA. (2011, January 26). National Atlas of the United States of America. Retrieved August 30, 2012, from http://www.nationalatlas.gov/articles/water/a_wateruse.html: http://www.nationalatlas.gov/articles/water/a_wateruse.html#top
Article Source
“Going Green” isn’t just a trend—it’s a global wide phenomenon, appealing to many different types of people for many different reasons. It’s good for the health of the environment, it can save money and resources, it promotes efficiency and reduces waste, and it makes us feel good knowing we are doing our part to save the earth for future generations. It is a philosophy, a way of life and in some cases a necessity. Water is one of those necessities.
Because water is so vital to how we live our lives, there is a deep concern about how to preserve and protect the water we use every day for food, bathing, electricity and more. On average the USA uses 408 billion gallons of water per day (National Atlas, USA, 2011). It’s a number that rose steadily until recent years when conservation efforts proved successful in keeping that number level, despite a growing population and an increase in demand, by making the ways we use water more efficient.
Homeowners have been doing their part by turning to more efficient fixtures for their homes and limiting wasteful use. Manufacturers have been doing their part as well offering all sorts of products that use less water, and that do it so well you don’t miss it. Today’s low flow products aren’t just made to use less water; they are designed to function better without it. Consumers don’t have to choose between products that work or products that are eco-friendly—they can have both.
For example, new technologies in how a showerhead creates a stream of water can allow a bather to experience the same intensity of water flow even though there is less actual water in the stream. This is a great thing, but it important to remember that the showerhead is just one part of a larger whole. It is literally an end-cap to a massive system designed to carrier and distribute water. Unintended changes to this system can affect its ability to function correctly and cause unintended failures that can result in serious injury due to what is known as thermal shock.
Thermal shock is when there is a rapid change in water temperature (either hot or cold) that can trigger an automatic response in a bather to escape from the source. This sort of extreme change in temperature is known to make people jump or react in such a way that it creates a high risk of injury from falls or slips, and in the case of hot temperatures it also carries a serious risk of burns. Thermal Shock has been known to cause not only first degree burns in bathers, but second and even third degree burns as well. It is something that occurs when there is an improper balance in pressure inside a water system that cannot properly compensate for the demands of multiple fixtures in the home. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)
Installing a low-flow showerhead into a building that was designed to work with a product that uses a larger flow of water can create this risk if it is not properly done. This does not mean that that newer more water efficient showerheads shouldn’t be installed in older homes, but it does mean that it is absolutely imperative that the installation is done properly with all the necessary precautions. Low-flow showerheads should never be used with a non-automatic compensating type tub/shower valve. This means making sure that the home uses an automatic compensating valve; one that will not be subject to extreme changes in temperature in the water coming from the showerhead when another fixture in the building, such as a toilet or a dishwasher, is turned on. In addition to making sure it is an automatic compensating valve, it is important to make sure that the maximum flow rate of the showerhead matches or exceeds the minimum flow rate of the shower valve and that both be quoted at the same psi. This way you can be sure that the range of water flow for both the showerhead and the valve are within the same range and will work together properly without the risk of injury. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)
The balance between the flow rate of the showerhead and the valve it is connected to is the only way to properly ensure the safety of the bather. Attempts to circumvent this by adjusting the thermostat of a water heater carries a high risk and is considered extremely dangerous. Thermostats in water heaters are designed to control the temperature of water coming into the unit and heat it up to the desired setting, but in doing so it can easily reheat the water already inside. It is not uncommon for water coming out of a heater to fluctuate from the set temperature up to 35 degrees warmer putting it into the temperature range capable of producing serious burns within seconds. (American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group, 2012)
Homeowners and the many well-intentioned groups and agencies that are promoting the use of more water-efficient products should make sure they take into account the whole of the plumbing system and how it works together, and beware of focusing on only one part which can lead to unintended consequences and injuries. Going green and conserving water is something that we can all do but we need to make sure that we do it safely so that we protect the current generation as well as the future ones.
Sources:
American Society of Sanitary Engineering Scald Awareness Task Group. (2012, March). Scald Hazards Associated with Low-Flow Showerheads. Retrieved August 2012, from http://www.asse-plumbing.org: http://www.asse-plumbing.org/ScaldHazards.pdf
National Atlas, USA. (2011, January 26). National Atlas of the United States of America. Retrieved August 30, 2012, from http://www.nationalatlas.gov/articles/water/a_wateruse.html: http://www.nationalatlas.gov/articles/water/a_wateruse.html#top
Article Source
Winter Energy Saving tips
The golden rule, If you are using your heater during chilly nights, abide by the golden rule: keep it a few degrees cooler than you're comfortable with, applies for the Northeastern region.
When the weather dips below freezing and you have no choice but to crank up the furnace, the best way to make sure you're saving money is by investing time in a complete tune-up of your heating system. A proper cleaning and inspection of all your HVAC equipment will ensure your unit is running most efficiently — and can also spot a potential problem before it becomes a major repair. Other heating tips for those in this region include always closing the fireplace damper to avoid losing heat as well as making sure all your windows and doors are secured with weather stripping and caulking.
Source: http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/976049/winter-energy-saving-tips-by-region
Source: http://www.sheknows.com/living/articles/976049/winter-energy-saving-tips-by-region
Home remodeling spending to accelerate
LIRA and the RMI are both indicating strong gains in the home improvement sector through the end of the year.
An improving housing market and record low interest rates are driving projections of strong gains in home improvement activity through the end of the year and into the first half of 2013, according to the Leading Indicator of Remodeling Activity recently released by the Remodeling Futures Program at the Joint Center for Housing Studies of Harvard University. The LIRA suggests that the seeds for what appears to be a very robust remodeling recovery have been planted, with annual homeowner improvement spending expected to reach double-digit growth in the first half of 2013.
“After a bump in home improvement activity during the mild winter, there was a bit of a pause this summer,” said Eric S. Belsky, managing director of the JCHS. “However, the LIRA is projecting an acceleration in market activity beginning this quarter, and strengthening as we move into the new year.”
Kermit Baker, director of the Remodeling Futures Program at the JCHS, said, “Strong growth in sales of existing homes and housing starts, coupled with historically low financing costs, have typically been associated with an upturn in home remodeling activity some months later. While the housing market has faced some unique challenges in recent years, this combination is expected to produce a favorable outlook for home improvement spending over the coming months.”
The Leading Indicator of Remodeling Activity is designed to estimate national homeowner spending on improvements for the current quarter and subsequent three quarters. The indicator, measured as an annual rate-of-change of its components, provides a short-term outlook of homeowner remodeling activity and is intended to help identify future turning points in the business cycle of the home improvement industry.
The Remodeling Futures Program, initiated by the Joint Center for Housing Studies in 1995, is a comprehensive study of the factors influencing the growth and changing characteristics of housing renovation and repair activity in the United States. The program seeks to produce a better understanding of the home improvement industry and its relationship to the broader residential construction industry.
Source: Remodeling Futures Program at the Joint Center for Housing Studies of Harvard University
Article Source
An improving housing market and record low interest rates are driving projections of strong gains in home improvement activity through the end of the year and into the first half of 2013, according to the Leading Indicator of Remodeling Activity recently released by the Remodeling Futures Program at the Joint Center for Housing Studies of Harvard University. The LIRA suggests that the seeds for what appears to be a very robust remodeling recovery have been planted, with annual homeowner improvement spending expected to reach double-digit growth in the first half of 2013.
“After a bump in home improvement activity during the mild winter, there was a bit of a pause this summer,” said Eric S. Belsky, managing director of the JCHS. “However, the LIRA is projecting an acceleration in market activity beginning this quarter, and strengthening as we move into the new year.”
Kermit Baker, director of the Remodeling Futures Program at the JCHS, said, “Strong growth in sales of existing homes and housing starts, coupled with historically low financing costs, have typically been associated with an upturn in home remodeling activity some months later. While the housing market has faced some unique challenges in recent years, this combination is expected to produce a favorable outlook for home improvement spending over the coming months.”
The Leading Indicator of Remodeling Activity is designed to estimate national homeowner spending on improvements for the current quarter and subsequent three quarters. The indicator, measured as an annual rate-of-change of its components, provides a short-term outlook of homeowner remodeling activity and is intended to help identify future turning points in the business cycle of the home improvement industry.
The Remodeling Futures Program, initiated by the Joint Center for Housing Studies in 1995, is a comprehensive study of the factors influencing the growth and changing characteristics of housing renovation and repair activity in the United States. The program seeks to produce a better understanding of the home improvement industry and its relationship to the broader residential construction industry.
Source: Remodeling Futures Program at the Joint Center for Housing Studies of Harvard University
Article Source
15 Energy Saving Cooking Tips For the Holidays
The winter holidays are upon us, and for many that means spending a signifigant ammount of time in the kitchen, preparing feasts for friends and family. That does not mean, however, that your energy bill has to suffer because of it. If we are smart about how we use our energy, we can cook that turkey and not kill our wallet!
1.Defrost frozen food in the fridge overnight: defrosting food in advance typically halves the cooking time.
2. Cover pans while cooking to prevent heat loss.
3. Make sure your pan covers the coil of your range. If you can see coil peeping out from the sides of your pan, you are losing energy and you need a bigger pan!
4. Just before your food is cooked completely, turn off the oven or burner and allow the heat in the pot or pan to continue the cooking process for you.
5. The less liquid and fat you use, the quicker the cooking time.
6.Use glass or ceramic dishes: they're the most efficient to use in the oven and can reduce the temperature required for cooking.
7.If you have one, use a pressure cooker. It really saves on energy.
8. Keep the Oven Door Shut -It's hard to resist cracking the oven to check the status of a roasting bird , but doing so causes the oven to drop its temperature, meaning it will require even more energy to stay constant. Resist opening that door! Instead of, turn on the oven light and monitor items through the window.
9. Stuff the Oven -Whenever possible, put several dishes in the oven at once, which can cut down on the amount of time the oven stays on throughout the day.
10.Fire Up the Microwave -Microwaves use just a fraction of the electricity that ovens do, and, of course, can dramatically reduce cooking time.
11.For soups and stews that require long cooking periods, using a crockpot will save a significant amount of energy.
12.Use a steamer to cook vegetables, that way you can layer a number of vegetables on top of each other and still use one ring, or use a pan with a divider.
13.Let your leftovers cool down Let food cool slightly before storing inside the refrigerator, so it won’t have to over compensate.
14.Lower your thermostat Are you expecting a lot of visitors? Cooking food and a crowd can quickly heat up the room, so adjust accordingly.
15.Load the Dishwasher - When faced with a mountain of holiday dishes, using the dishwasher is usually more energy-efficient. Scraping plates rather than rinsing them will also save water, as will the low-heat and energy-saver options on your machine.
Source, Source, Source, Source, Source
1.Defrost frozen food in the fridge overnight: defrosting food in advance typically halves the cooking time.
2. Cover pans while cooking to prevent heat loss.
3. Make sure your pan covers the coil of your range. If you can see coil peeping out from the sides of your pan, you are losing energy and you need a bigger pan!
4. Just before your food is cooked completely, turn off the oven or burner and allow the heat in the pot or pan to continue the cooking process for you.
5. The less liquid and fat you use, the quicker the cooking time.
6.Use glass or ceramic dishes: they're the most efficient to use in the oven and can reduce the temperature required for cooking.
7.If you have one, use a pressure cooker. It really saves on energy.
8. Keep the Oven Door Shut -It's hard to resist cracking the oven to check the status of a roasting bird , but doing so causes the oven to drop its temperature, meaning it will require even more energy to stay constant. Resist opening that door! Instead of, turn on the oven light and monitor items through the window.
9. Stuff the Oven -Whenever possible, put several dishes in the oven at once, which can cut down on the amount of time the oven stays on throughout the day.
10.Fire Up the Microwave -Microwaves use just a fraction of the electricity that ovens do, and, of course, can dramatically reduce cooking time.
11.For soups and stews that require long cooking periods, using a crockpot will save a significant amount of energy.
12.Use a steamer to cook vegetables, that way you can layer a number of vegetables on top of each other and still use one ring, or use a pan with a divider.
13.Let your leftovers cool down Let food cool slightly before storing inside the refrigerator, so it won’t have to over compensate.
14.Lower your thermostat Are you expecting a lot of visitors? Cooking food and a crowd can quickly heat up the room, so adjust accordingly.
15.Load the Dishwasher - When faced with a mountain of holiday dishes, using the dishwasher is usually more energy-efficient. Scraping plates rather than rinsing them will also save water, as will the low-heat and energy-saver options on your machine.
Source, Source, Source, Source, Source
Friday, October 19, 2012
Electrical Services in the Pottstown area
Gehringer Mechanical is a full-service electrical company serving both residential and commercial customers. Gehringer Mechanical handles all electrical work associated with the following services:
- New Construction, Repair and Upgrade Services
- Sub-Panel Installation
- Communications
- Data
- Audio / Video
- Lighting Designs and Installation
- Miscellaneous Electrical Repairs
- Industrial and Commercial Installation and Service
- Electrical Generators
Gehringer Mechanical also offers a full line of electrical generators to serve as your backup or alternative energy source to get you through winter and severe weather emergencies.
Call 610-367-8271 today for more information!
**We offer 24 Hour Emergency Service**
**If you are calling before 7:00 AM or after 5:00 PM Monday - Friday or anytime on Saturday or Sunday please call our After Hours Emergency Number: 484-256-0708
Immediate service in the following areas:
CITIES: Pottstown, Boyertown, Reading, Collegeville, Gilbertsville, Douglassville, Phoenixville, Oley, Fleetwood, Royersford, East Greenville
COUNTIES: Berks, Bucks, Chester, Montgomery
CITIES: Pottstown, Boyertown, Reading, Collegeville, Gilbertsville, Douglassville, Phoenixville, Oley, Fleetwood, Royersford, East Greenville
COUNTIES: Berks, Bucks, Chester, Montgomery
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Tips to Improve Indoor Air Quality
Americans spend about 90 percent -- or more -- of their time indoors.1 During the winter, cold temperatures force many to also keep their windows tightly closed both at home and on the job, which means you’re living and breathing in a tightly sealed environment until spring.
While air pollution is often regarded as an outdoor problem stemming from car exhaust, industrial emissions and more, you should know that your indoor air can be polluted too. In fact, indoor levels of pollutants may be two to five times higher than outdoor levels, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and at times may be more than 100 times higher!2
Given that the majority of the air you breathe is coming from your indoor environment, it’s important to take your indoor air quality into account when looking out for your, and your family’s, health.
Why is Indoor Air so Toxic?
Most homes are now designed to be energy efficient, and this means they’re well insulated and have very few air exchanges between indoor and outdoor air. If your home is not well ventilated and contains the numerous sources of indoor air pollution common to most indoor environments, there’s a good chance you’re breathing dirty air in your home.
Some sources of indoor air pollution, like cigarette smoke, are obvious, but others are more insidious. Common sources of indoor pollutants include:
Anytime you spray a pesticide, cleaning product or air freshener in your home, or use paint or other industrial products, you’re releasing a slew of chemicals. Those chemicals, many which have been linked to health problems, accumulate first in your air and then settle down into your household dust. Anytime you walk through a room, that dust gets stirred up into the air once again, where you breathe it in.
Tips for Improving Your Indoor Air Quality
Winter is an ideal time to take stock of your indoor air, as it may be many months before you crack a window to let some fresh air in. What can you do to keep your home’s air as pure as possible?
While air pollution is often regarded as an outdoor problem stemming from car exhaust, industrial emissions and more, you should know that your indoor air can be polluted too. In fact, indoor levels of pollutants may be two to five times higher than outdoor levels, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and at times may be more than 100 times higher!2
Given that the majority of the air you breathe is coming from your indoor environment, it’s important to take your indoor air quality into account when looking out for your, and your family’s, health.
Why is Indoor Air so Toxic?
Most homes are now designed to be energy efficient, and this means they’re well insulated and have very few air exchanges between indoor and outdoor air. If your home is not well ventilated and contains the numerous sources of indoor air pollution common to most indoor environments, there’s a good chance you’re breathing dirty air in your home.
Some sources of indoor air pollution, like cigarette smoke, are obvious, but others are more insidious. Common sources of indoor pollutants include:
- Building materials (including flooring, paint, etc.)
- Carpeting
- Cabinetry or furniture made of pressed-wood products
- Household cleaning products
- Central heating and cooling systems
- Humidification devices
- Radon
- Air fresheners
- Combustion sources (oil, gas, kerosene, coal and wood)
- Personal care products (hair spray, nail polish, fragrance, etc.)
- Materials used for hobbies (glues, epoxy, paint strippers, etc.)
- Pesticides
Anytime you spray a pesticide, cleaning product or air freshener in your home, or use paint or other industrial products, you’re releasing a slew of chemicals. Those chemicals, many which have been linked to health problems, accumulate first in your air and then settle down into your household dust. Anytime you walk through a room, that dust gets stirred up into the air once again, where you breathe it in.
Tips for Improving Your Indoor Air Quality
Winter is an ideal time to take stock of your indoor air, as it may be many months before you crack a window to let some fresh air in. What can you do to keep your home’s air as pure as possible?
- 1. Minimize Pollutant Sources: Avoid spraying pesticides, chemical cleaners, air fresheners and other synthetic products in your home. Also minimize your use of paint thinner and other solvents, and look for non-toxic, low-VOC or zero-VOC paints.
If you will be purchasing new furniture, carpeting, cabinetry or flooring, look for those made of green building materials, as these will not outgas VOCs the way conventional building supplies will.
2. Increase Ventilation: Most heating and cooling systems do not circulate fresh air into your home, so in order to help keep your home well-ventilated you should consider using window or attic fans, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans, or a window air conditioner with the vent control open.
Opening windows as weather permits is also important, especially when you’re using products that generate high levels of pollutants (such as paint or paint thinner).
Some newer homes may also have the option of air-to-air heat exchangers, which bring outdoor air into the home while still being energy efficient.
3. Test Your Home for Radon: Testing radon levels in your home is the only way to detect it. Contact a qualified radon service professional in your area to find out about testing and, if levels are elevated, steps for removal.
4. Control Moisture: Keeping the humidity level in your home between 30-60 percent will help keep dust mites, mold and mildew under control.8 You should also take care to keep areas where moisture collects, like basements and bathrooms, well ventilated, dry and clean. Be especially diligent with cleaning humidifiers regularly and using fresh water daily, as these are common breeding grounds for mold and other biological contaminants.
5. Keep Your Home Clean: Regularly dusting and vacuuming your home will help keep dust mites, pollen, dander, and certain other biological air pollutants to a minimum.
6. Consider an Air Cleaner: Air filters and cleaners can help to remove toxins from your home’s air, but they vary widely in effectiveness. For instance, most table-top models will not remove particles from the air as well as whole-house systems.
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
5 Tips for Winter Proofing Your Home
Add insulation to your attic
A few years ago I heard a good piece of advice, “If every house except yours has snow on the roof, then you don’t have enough insulation in your attic.” The concept is that all the warm air in your home is escaping through your roof due to poor insulation. If you do not have the proper amount of insulation in your attic, you will end up paying a good deal more to keep your house heated this winter.
Invest in insulated curtains
Thermal curtains, or thick insulated curtains, will keep heat from escaping through windows and are a great investment if you need to buy window treatments anyway. Insulated curtains have been shown to reduce about 25% of thermal energy loss. They can quickly pay for themselves from the money you will save on your energy bill.
Add weather stripping around door and window frames
A roll of foam weather stripping is a very cheap way to winter proof your home from drafts and lower your energy bill. Everywhere there is a gap between the door or window and its frame, you should apply weather stripping.
Caulk any gaps in window or door frames
If you can still feel a draft after applying weather stripping around the doors and windows, you may need to caulk any additional gaps located between the frames and the wall. You may even want to consider caulking around foundation walls or any other gaps you have in your exterior walls. A trick to see if your windows have a leak is to take a candle around the edges, if the flame flickers that means air is heading out of your home!
Place a rolled towel in front of all exterior doors
A very simple and free way to save energy this winter is to place a rolled up towel at the base of your doors. A towel can block out any drafts that come in through the bottom of the door, and it’s so easy to do. There are also products that can block these under-door drafts as well.
Monday, October 15, 2012
Top 10 Better Ways to Stay Warm This Winter
10. Prepare Your Furnace Ahead of Time
You don't want to wait until the temperatures are freezing before you visit your furnace, because if there's anything wrong, you'll be caught in freezing temperatures while you repair it. As winter approaches, give everything a good test run to make sure it works so you aren't scrambling to find a repairman before your pipes freeze.
9. Use a Space Heater to Heat One Room at Low Cost
If you're only spending time in one room of your house, you can usually give your heating a break and use a smaller space heater. They'll only cost about $50 to $100; far less than the cost of keeping your entire home warm—plus, you have quite a few models to choose from to best fit your needs.
8. Install a Programmable Thermostat
If you haven't invested in a fully programmable thermostat, now might be the time, as they can make your life a lot easier. Not only are they more energy-friendly, but after installing the system, there's very little hassle involved later on. They'll just adjust themselves depending on the time of day, so when it's warmer out, you're not wasting heat (and when you're at work, you can leave your house a bit cooler).
7. Make Your Fireplace More Efficient
An evening fire not only does a good job of keeping you warm, but it provides a very pleasant atmosphere on those cold winter nights. Unfortunately, fireplaces can be a bit inefficient, pulling tons of heat up through the chimney (which is even worse when you don't have a fire going). Luckily, there are a few DIY solutions to maximize the heat a roaring fire provides. Make sure to sprinkle some coffee grounds in there, too, for easier cleanup later on.
6. Try Some Less Well-Known Homemade Warming Beverages
There's nothing wrong with hot chocolate and tea, but switch it up by trying something new, like the spicy, honey-based Russian beverage Sbiten. If it's too late and you've gone past chills and into a cold, you might opt to try a throat-soothing honey lemon ginger infusion, or one of our many other homemade cough and cold remedies.
5. Weather Strip, Seal, and Curtain Your Windows
While it's important to have a good heating system in your house, the other half of the equation is making sure heat doesn't escape. Before it gets too cold, take some time toweather strip your windows to keep cold air out (and warm air in). If you don't have the time for a full weatherproofing, a quick bubblewrap application will do the trick nicely.
4. Insulate Outlets and Switches
While keeping air from escaping out your doors and windows may seem obvious, they aren't the only places in your house air can escape. Power outlets and light switches can contribute a remarkable amount of draftiness if not insulated properly. With just a screwdriver, some inexpensive foam plate seals, and maybe some expanding foam, you can plug those sneaky air holes up tight.
3. Harness the Sun's Energy to Add Some Extra Heat to Your Home
While it probably won't heat your whole house, you can probably cut down your heating costs by making your own solar heater. You can use nearly anything you have lying around—like old metal light fixtures or a tower of soda cans—and some black paint to create a free heat collector. If the sun doesn't shine where you come from, you can also build your own rocket stove to heat your home using wood scraps.
2. Make Your Own Heated Clothing
Heated blankets are a godsend in the winter, but if you find you could use a little extra electric-powered body heat all the time, you can use some Teflon and copper wire connected to a battery to make your own heated thermal underwear. It's extreme, sure—but there's nothing like that toasty, fresh-out-of-the-dryer feeling all day long.
1. Winterize Your Body to Stay Fit and Healthy
Apart from actually creating and insulating the ever-precious heat, you need to make sure not to neglect your body's changing needs in the winter. Being cold, sick and depressed is a lot worse than just being a little chilly. Getting enough sunshine, water, vitamins, and social activity is crucial to keeping yourself comfortable in the winter, so read up on the best ways to stay healthy in the winter before you get sick.
Monday, October 8, 2012
Tips to Improve Indoor Air Quality
Americans spend about 90 percent -- or more -- of their time indoors.1 During the winter, cold temperatures force many to also keep their windows tightly closed both at home and on the job, which means you’re living and breathing in a tightly sealed environment until spring.
While air pollution is often regarded as an outdoor problem stemming from car exhaust, industrial emissions and more, you should know that your indoor air can be polluted too. In fact, indoor levels of pollutants may be two to five times higher than outdoor levels, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and at times may be more than 100 times higher!2
Given that the majority of the air you breathe is coming from your indoor environment, it’s important to take your indoor air quality into account when looking out for your, and your family’s, health.
Why is Indoor Air so Toxic?
Most homes are now designed to be energy efficient, and this means they’re well insulated and have very few air exchanges between indoor and outdoor air. If your home is not well ventilated and contains the numerous sources of indoor air pollution common to most indoor environments, there’s a good chance you’re breathing dirty air in your home.
As the EPA states:3
Some sources of indoor air pollution, like cigarette smoke, are obvious, but others are more insidious. Common sources of indoor pollutants include:
Anytime you spray a pesticide, cleaning product or air freshener in your home, or use paint or other industrial products, you’re releasing a slew of chemicals. Those chemicals, many which have been linked to health problems, accumulate first in your air and then settle down into your household dust. Anytime you walk through a room, that dust gets stirred up into the air once again, where you breathe it in.
What Types of Toxins are in Your Home’s Air?
You may be surprised to learn just how many toxic chemicals exist in your “safe haven.” Among them:
Health Risks of Polluted Indoor Air
Indoor air pollutants can lead to numerous short- and long-term health problems. More immediate effects occur in people who are sensitive or allergic, or because pollutant levels are very high. Such symptoms may include eye, nose and throat irritation, fatigue, headaches, and dizziness, or they may mimic symptoms of a cold or other viral illness.
Long-term exposure, however, can lead to more serious health conditions that may not show up for years. These include:
Tips for Improving Your Indoor Air Quality
Winter is an ideal time to take stock of your indoor air, as it may be many months before you crack a window to let some fresh air in. What can you do to keep your home’s air as pure as possible?
The Right Balance Between Too Much Moisture and Dry Winter Air
Forced-air heating systems are notorious for leading to dry winter air in homes. This dry air can not only irritate your nose and throat, it can lead to dry itchy skin, nosebleeds and chapped lips too.
Further, flu viruses are known to flourish in cold, dry air with very little moisture, making the flu easier to spread and even increasing the length of time it remains contagious once airborne.10 This means it’s possible dry winter air may increase your family’s risk of catching the flu.
So if you’re trying to control moisture and humidity in your home to keep mold and mildew to a minimum, remember that a healthy balance -- keeping humidity levels at 30-60 percent -- is best. If your air feels excessively dry you can also use a humidifier -- just be certain you keep it very well cleaned.
Since Americans spend so much time indoors … and with winter upon us you and your family may be cooped up inside even more than usual … now is the ideal time to be extra vigilant about your indoor air quality. By taking the steps listed above you can help remove toxins and increase ventilation so your home’s air stays as pure and fresh as possible.
Source: http://www.cncahealth.com/health-info/general/improve-indoor-air-quality.htm
While air pollution is often regarded as an outdoor problem stemming from car exhaust, industrial emissions and more, you should know that your indoor air can be polluted too. In fact, indoor levels of pollutants may be two to five times higher than outdoor levels, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and at times may be more than 100 times higher!2
Given that the majority of the air you breathe is coming from your indoor environment, it’s important to take your indoor air quality into account when looking out for your, and your family’s, health.
Why is Indoor Air so Toxic?
Most homes are now designed to be energy efficient, and this means they’re well insulated and have very few air exchanges between indoor and outdoor air. If your home is not well ventilated and contains the numerous sources of indoor air pollution common to most indoor environments, there’s a good chance you’re breathing dirty air in your home.
As the EPA states:3
- “If too little outdoor air enters a home, pollutants can accumulate to levels that can pose health and comfort problems. Unless they are built with special mechanical means of ventilation, homes that are designed and constructed to minimize the amount of outdoor air that can "leak" into and out of the home may have higher pollutant levels than other homes.
However, because some weather conditions can drastically reduce the amount of outdoor air that enters a home, pollutants can build up even in homes that are normally considered "leaky."
Some sources of indoor air pollution, like cigarette smoke, are obvious, but others are more insidious. Common sources of indoor pollutants include:
- Building materials (including flooring, paint, etc.)
- Carpeting
- Cabinetry or furniture made of pressed-wood products
- Household cleaning products
- Central heating and cooling systems
- Humidification devices
- Radon
- Air fresheners
- Combustion sources (oil, gas, kerosene, coal and wood)
- Personal care products (hair spray, nail polish, fragrance, etc.)
- Materials used for hobbies (glues, epoxy, paint strippers, etc.)
- Pesticides
Anytime you spray a pesticide, cleaning product or air freshener in your home, or use paint or other industrial products, you’re releasing a slew of chemicals. Those chemicals, many which have been linked to health problems, accumulate first in your air and then settle down into your household dust. Anytime you walk through a room, that dust gets stirred up into the air once again, where you breathe it in.
What Types of Toxins are in Your Home’s Air?
You may be surprised to learn just how many toxic chemicals exist in your “safe haven.” Among them:
- Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs): These are emitted from paint, paint strippers, cleaning supplies, furniture and building supplies, pesticides, office equipment, permanent markers and more. Fumes can be released from these products not only when they’re in use but also while they’re stored.
Some VOCs are linked to cancer and damage to the liver, kidneys and central nervous system. Studies suggest concentrations of VOCs in air can be up to 10 times higher indoors than outdoors.4
Respirable Particles: Indoor particle pollutants come from fireplaces, wood stoves, furnaces and kerosene heaters. They can cause respiratory infections, bronchitis and lung cancer.5
Pesticides: All types of pest-control products, ranging from insecticides to fungicides and in crystal, powder, liquid or fogger form, can emit toxins in your home. Research shows that most homes have widespread pesticide residues;6 pesticides have been linked to increased risks of cancer and damage to the liver, kidneys, endocrine and nervous systems.
Biological Pollutants: Mold, mildew, bacteria, viruses, animal dander, dust, saliva, pollen, and mites are all examples of biological pollutants in your home. Droppings and body parts from cockroaches, rodents and other insects can also add to this toxic load.
Some biological pollutants can cause allergic reactions and asthma in sensitive individuals, while others, like mold and mildew, can release toxins into the air. Common health complaints related to biological pollutants include allergic symptoms (sneezing, watery eyes, coughing, shortness of breath), lethargy, dizziness, fever and digestive problems.7
Radon: Radon is an invisible, odorless gas that comes from naturally occurring uranium in soil and water. It can seep into your home through pipes, cracks in your foundation, sumps and drains and other openings. Radon is carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer; it is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers.
Health Risks of Polluted Indoor Air
Indoor air pollutants can lead to numerous short- and long-term health problems. More immediate effects occur in people who are sensitive or allergic, or because pollutant levels are very high. Such symptoms may include eye, nose and throat irritation, fatigue, headaches, and dizziness, or they may mimic symptoms of a cold or other viral illness.
Long-term exposure, however, can lead to more serious health conditions that may not show up for years. These include:
- Cancer
- Respiratory disease
- Heart disease
Tips for Improving Your Indoor Air Quality
Winter is an ideal time to take stock of your indoor air, as it may be many months before you crack a window to let some fresh air in. What can you do to keep your home’s air as pure as possible?
- 1. Minimize Pollutant Sources: Avoid spraying pesticides, chemical cleaners, air fresheners and other synthetic products in your home. Also minimize your use of paint thinner and other solvents, and look for non-toxic, low-VOC or zero-VOC paints.
If you will be purchasing new furniture, carpeting, cabinetry or flooring, look for those made of green building materials, as these will not outgas VOCs the way conventional building supplies will.
2. Increase Ventilation: Most heating and cooling systems do not circulate fresh air into your home, so in order to help keep your home well-ventilated you should consider using window or attic fans, kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans, or a window air conditioner with the vent control open.
Opening windows as weather permits is also important, especially when you’re using products that generate high levels of pollutants (such as paint or paint thinner).
Some newer homes may also have the option of air-to-air heat exchangers, which bring outdoor air into the home while still being energy efficient.
3. Test Your Home for Radon: Testing radon levels in your home is the only way to detect it. Contact a qualified radon service professional in your area to find out about testing and, if levels are elevated, steps for removal.
4. Control Moisture: Keeping the humidity level in your home between 30-60 percent will help keep dust mites, mold and mildew under control.8 You should also take care to keep areas where moisture collects, like basements and bathrooms, well ventilated, dry and clean. Be especially diligent with cleaning humidifiers regularly and using fresh water daily, as these are common breeding grounds for mold and other biological contaminants.
5. Keep Your Home Clean: Regularly dusting and vacuuming your home will help keep dust mites, pollen, dander, and certain other biological air pollutants to a minimum.
6. Consider an Air Cleaner: Air filters and cleaners can help to remove toxins from your home’s air, but they vary widely in effectiveness. For instance, most table-top models will not remove particles from the air as well as whole-house systems. According to the EPA, here’s what to look for when choosing an air cleaner for your home:9
“The effectiveness of an air cleaner depends on how well it collects pollutants from indoor air (expressed as a percentage efficiency rate) and how much air it draws through the cleaning or filtering element (expressed in cubic feet per minute).
A very efficient collector with a low air-circulation rate will not be effective, nor will a cleaner with a high air-circulation rate but a less efficient collector. The long-term performance of any air cleaner depends on maintaining it according to the manufacturer's directions.
Another important factor in determining the effectiveness of an air cleaner is the strength of the pollutant source. Table-top air cleaners, in particular, may not remove satisfactory amounts of pollutants from strong nearby sources. People with a sensitivity to particular sources may find that air cleaners are helpful only in conjunction with concerted efforts to remove the source.”
The Right Balance Between Too Much Moisture and Dry Winter Air
Forced-air heating systems are notorious for leading to dry winter air in homes. This dry air can not only irritate your nose and throat, it can lead to dry itchy skin, nosebleeds and chapped lips too.
Further, flu viruses are known to flourish in cold, dry air with very little moisture, making the flu easier to spread and even increasing the length of time it remains contagious once airborne.10 This means it’s possible dry winter air may increase your family’s risk of catching the flu.
So if you’re trying to control moisture and humidity in your home to keep mold and mildew to a minimum, remember that a healthy balance -- keeping humidity levels at 30-60 percent -- is best. If your air feels excessively dry you can also use a humidifier -- just be certain you keep it very well cleaned.
Since Americans spend so much time indoors … and with winter upon us you and your family may be cooped up inside even more than usual … now is the ideal time to be extra vigilant about your indoor air quality. By taking the steps listed above you can help remove toxins and increase ventilation so your home’s air stays as pure and fresh as possible.
Source: http://www.cncahealth.com/health-info/general/improve-indoor-air-quality.htm
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
11 Home Electrical Safety Tips
Listen to your breaker.
A breaker that trips immediately after it's reset is telling you that there's an electrical problem. Sure, sometimes the breaker itself is to blame, and in some cases there may just be too large an electrical load operating on that circuit. But it's more likely that the breaker is tripping because there's a severe electrical problem. Keep pressing that breaker, and you're likely to cause a fire.Know when to fight and when to flee.
Firefighters recommend that if you have any doubt about fighting a fire, you're best bet is to get out of the house as quickly as possible. Once you're safely outside, call the fire department. If you decide that there's a reasonable chance that you can fight a fire and win, then stand your ground, but don't let the fire get between you and the exit. If you sense that the fire's going to overtake you and block your exit, get out.Never throw water on an electrical fire.
This will be obvious to many PM readers, but in the heat (ahem) of the moment, grabbing a bucket of water can seem tempting, if unreasonable. Water conducts electricity (this is why you don't want to be in a lake during a lightning storm), so throwing water on the fire could cause it to get larger. Instead, use your chemical fire extinguisher.Use your fire extinguisher effectively.
Firefighters recommend the time-honored PASS method:Pull the fire extinguisher's safety pin.
Aim the extinguisher nozzle at the base of the fire.
Squeeze the extinguisher's handle.
Sweep the extinguisher's nozzle in a side-to-side motion until the flames are out.
Sure, it sounds easy, but let's hope you never have to use this advice. Start by paying attention to what the circuit breaker is telling you. If it trips immediately, evaluate the situation if you are electrically competent or call an electrician. Don't call Pat, though; he's already got enough to do.
Aside from blatantly obvious electrical malfunctions that lead to flying sparks or circuit breakers that trip repeatedly, you should always keep a sharp eye cocked for more subtle telltale electrical-danger signs:
Lights that flicker or that trip the circuit breaker
Cause: Loose wiring splice or a light fixture that's worn out and needs to be replaced.Solution: Cut power to the fixture and investigate the supply wiring and the fixture itself. Replace wire connectors with new professional-grade types. Replace the fixture if suspect.
Outlets with a faceplate that's warm to the touch
Cause: An overly large electrical load operating on that outlet, undersized wiring or a loose electrical splice. (Note: it's not unusual for dimmer switches, especially large ones, to be warm. Unless the switch face is actually too hot to touch, a warm dimmer is not a hazard in most cases)Solution: Cut power and investigate. Look for a loose splice, melted connections, burned insulation. Repair as necessary. Also, evaluate wattage of device; it may be too large relative to supply wiring. Move device to another circuit, preferably one served by a 20-amp circuit breaker and 12-gauge wire. If condition persists, contact an electrician.
Extension cords wrapped in electrical tape or with loose ends
Cause: Wear and tear has taken its toll on the cord.Solution: Cut off damaged sections of cords; replace loose or damaged male/female ends. Replace severely damaged cords.
Wobbly switches or outlet receptacles
Cause: Device is improperly mounted to the electrical box or the box itself has come loose from the stud.Solution: Cut power. Remove faceplate and tighten mounting screws. Occasionally, overly long screws will not fully seat. Shorten screws with an electrician's multitool (a pair of pliers that strip wire, bend wire and cut screws ). Reinstall device. Otherwise, tighten connection of box to framing.
Ceiling fans that slowly wobble
Cause: Fan is out of balance or may be installed on a box that's not listed for supporting a fan.Solution: Balance fan or cut power and reinstall fan, checking for loose, damaged or missing hardware. If necessary, replace box. Use a retrofit/old-work box rated for fan installation (note: These are not to be confused with old-work boxes or other electrical boxes not listed for fan installation. Specialized retrofit boxes rated for fans tend not to be common hardware-store or home-center items. Visit an electrical supply house or use a Web-based supplier. One version is the Steel One Box manufactured by Arlington Products. (www.aifittings.com).
GFCI outlets that trip repeatedly
Cause: A ground fault or a worn-out GFCI outlet receptacle.Solution: Move appliance or tool to another GFCI and test. If GFCI trips, appliance or tool is suspect. If GFCI does not trip, electrical problems are likely. Cut power and investigate for damaged wire insulation, a loose splice or a small length of exposed wire making contact with a metal electrical box. If you don't find wiring or splice problems, replace the GFCI. If condition persists, contact an electrician.
The beer fridge in the garage that occasionally gives you a small shock
Cause: Many an old refrigerator will have a tiny leakage current because of worn-out insulation on its internal wiring, especially if it has a defrost circuit. This phenomenon is well-known and can even be quite dangerous when the refrigerator is placed on an electrically conductive concrete floor, especially a floor that's damp with condensation.Solution: Replace the refrigerator with a new energy-conserving model.
Read more: 11 Shocking Home Electrical Safety Tips - Popular Mechanics
Monday, September 17, 2012
10 ways to winterize your home — now
1. Clean those gutters
Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters -- by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse -- so that winter's rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says.
As you're hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house's foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.
2. Block those leaks
One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.
Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters -- by hand, by scraper or spatula, and finally by a good hose rinse -- so that winter's rain and melting snow can drain. Clogged drains can form ice dams, in which water backs up, freezes and causes water to seep into the house, the Insurance Information Institute says.
As you're hosing out your gutters, look for leaks and misaligned pipes. Also, make sure the downspouts are carrying water away from the house's foundation, where it could cause flooding or other water damage.
2. Block those leaks
One of the best ways to winterize your home is to simply block obvious leaks around your house, both inside and out, experts say. The average American home has leaks that amount to a nine-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group.
First, find the leaks: On a breezy day, walk around inside holding a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: recessed lighting, window and door frames, electrical outlets.
Then, buy door sweeps to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk or apply tacky rope caulk to those drafty spots, says Danny Lipford, host of the nationally syndicated TV show "Today's Homeowner." Outlet gaskets can easily be installed in electrical outlets that share a home's outer walls, where cold air often enters.
Outside, seal leaks with weather-resistant caulk. For brick areas, use masonry sealer, which will better stand up to freezing and thawing. "Even if it's a small crack, it's worth sealing up," Lipford says. "It also discourages any insects from entering your home."
3. Insulate yourself
"Another thing that does cost a little money -- but boy, you do get the money back quick -- is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic," says Lipford. "Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic."
"Another thing that does cost a little money -- but boy, you do get the money back quick -- is adding insulation to the existing insulation in the attic," says Lipford. "Regardless of the climate conditions you live in, in the (U.S.) you need a minimum of 12 inches of insulation in your attic."
Don't clutter your brain with R-values or measuring tape, though. Here's Lipford's rule of thumb on whether you need to add insulation: "If you go into the attic and you can see the ceiling joists you know you don't have enough, because a ceiling joist is at most 10 or 11 inches."
A related tip: If you're layering insulation atop other insulation, don't use the kind that has "kraft face" finish (i.e., a paper backing). It acts as a vapor barrier, Lipford explains, and therefore can cause moisture problems in the insulation.
4. Check the furnace
First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it's even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.
First, turn your furnace on now, to make sure it's even working, before the coldest weather descends. A strong, odd, short-lasting smell is natural when firing up the furnace in the autumn; simply open windows to dissipate it. But if the smell lasts a long time, shut down the furnace and call a professional.
It's a good idea to have furnaces cleaned and tuned annually. Costs will often run about $100-$125. An inspector should do the following, among other things:
Throughout the winter you should change the furnace filters regularly (check them monthly). A dirty filter impedes air flow, reduces efficiency and could even cause a fire in an extreme case. Toss out the dirty fiberglass filters; reusable electrostatic or electronic filters can be washed.
5. Get your ducts in a row
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That's a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.)
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, a home with central heating can lose up to 60% of its heated air before that air reaches the vents if ductwork is not well-connected and insulated, or if it must travel through unheated spaces. That's a huge amount of wasted money, not to mention a chilly house. (Check out this audit tool for other ideas on how to save on your energy bills this winter.)
Ducts aren't always easy to see, but you can often find them exposed in the attic, the basement and crawlspaces. Repair places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, and fix gaps with a metal-backed tape (duct tape actually doesn't stand up to the job over time).
Ducts also should be vacuumed once every few years, to clean out the abundant dust, animal hair and other gunk that can gather in them and cause respiratory problems.
6. Face your windows
Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don't have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, "They need to be updated to a more efficient window," says Lipford.
Now, of course, is the time to take down the window screens and put up storm windows, which provide an extra layer of protection and warmth for the home. Storm windows are particularly helpful if you have old, single-pane glass windows. But if you don't have storm windows, and your windows are leaky or drafty, "They need to be updated to a more efficient window," says Lipford.
Of course, windows are pricey. Budget to replace them a few at a time, and in the meantime, buy a window insulator kit, Lipford and Broili recommend. Basically, the kit is plastic sheeting that's affixed to a window’s interior with double-stick tape. A hair dryer is then used to shrink-wrap the sheeting onto the window. (It can be removed in the spring.) "It's temporary and it's not pretty, but it's inexpensive (about $4 a window) and it's extremely effective," says Lipford.
7. Don't forget the chimney
Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because "chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed," says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America.
Ideally, spring is the time to think about your chimney, because "chimney sweeps are going crazy right now, as you might have guessed," says Ashley Eldridge, director of education for the Chimney Safety Institute of America.
That said, don't put off your chimney needs before using your fireplace, Eldridge advises. "A common myth is that a chimney needs to be swept every year," says Eldridge. Not true. But a chimney should at least be inspected before use each year, he adds. "I've seen tennis balls and ducks in chimneys," he says.
Ask for a Level 1 inspection, in which the professional examines the readily accessible portions of the chimney, Eldridge says. "Most certified chimney sweeps include a Level 1 service with a sweep," he adds.
Woodstoves are a different beast, however, cautions Eldridge. They should be swept more than once a year. A general rule of thumb is that a cleaning should be performed for every ¼ inch of creosote, "anywhere that it's found." Why? "If it's ash, then it's primarily lye -- the same stuff that was once used to make soap, and it's very acidic." It can cause mortar and the metal damper to rot, Eldridge says.
Another tip: Buy a protective cap for your chimney, with a screen, advises Eldridge. "It's probably the single easiest protection" because it keeps out foreign objects (birds, tennis balls) as well as rain that can mix with the ash and eat away at the fireplace's walls. He advises buying based on durability, not appearance.
One other reminder: To keep out cold air, fireplace owners should keep their chimney's damper closed when the fireplace isn't in use. And for the same reason, woodstove owners should have glass doors on their stoves, and keep them closed when the stove isn't in use.
8. Reverse that fan
"Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don't often think of," says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here's how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.)
"Reversing your ceiling fan is a small tip that people don't often think of," says Lipford. By reversing its direction from the summer operation, the fan will push warm air downward and force it to recirculate, keeping you more comfortable. (Here's how you know the fan is ready for winter: As you look up, the blades should be turning clockwise, says Lipford.)
9. Wrap those pipes
A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights aren't commonplace, you can install Styrofoam cups with a screw attachment to help insulate spigots, says Broili.
A burst pipe caused by a winter freeze is a nightmare. Prevent it before Jack Frost sets his grip: Before freezing nights hit, make certain that the water to your hose bibs is shut off inside your house (via a turnoff valve), and that the lines are drained, says Broili. In climes such as Portland, Ore., or Seattle, where freezing nights aren't commonplace, you can install Styrofoam cups with a screw attachment to help insulate spigots, says Broili.
Next, go looking for other pipes that aren't insulated, or that pass through unheated spaces -- pipes that run through crawlspaces, basements or garages. Wrap them with pre-molded foam rubber sleeves or fiberglass insulation, available at hardware stores. If you're really worried about a pipe freezing, you can first wrap it with heating tape, which is basically an electrical cord that emits heat.
10. Finally, check those alarms
This is a great time to check the operation -- and change the batteries -- on your home's smoke detectors. Detectors should be replaced every 10 years, fire officials say. Test them -- older ones in particular -- with a small bit of actual smoke, and not just by pressing the "test" button. Check to see that your fire extinguisher is still where it should be, and still works.
This is a great time to check the operation -- and change the batteries -- on your home's smoke detectors. Detectors should be replaced every 10 years, fire officials say. Test them -- older ones in particular -- with a small bit of actual smoke, and not just by pressing the "test" button. Check to see that your fire extinguisher is still where it should be, and still works.
Also, invest in a carbon-monoxide detector; every home should have at least one.
Source: http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=13107899
Source: http://realestate.msn.com/article.aspx?cp-documentid=13107899
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